Mawlemyine
I felt so good, like I just broke out of prison, and just admired my new home town for the next few days. The taxi driver took me to Breeze guesthouse – which happened to be my worst night. The rooms are actually just one big room, divided with thin walls into really small spaces. The bed was so hard and I thought it would brake under my weight, but luckily I had double bed so I put one mattress on top of the other and this way it was passable for one night. The air was bad and there was noise in the evening, you could hear everything from the outside, and at about 3 AM there was one guy outside our rooms, in the hall, shouting all sorts of crazy things. He was talking about death, asking who wants to die and who wants to kill him and all sorts of things like this. It lasted for about an hour and I felt really scared and upset as my room didn’t have any widow so I had no place to get away. Luckily later somehow the guy left and I got some sleep. In the morning I met one guy there, about 45 years old, who travels around mostly by walking. He takes a ride if somebody offers him – he doesn’t go with public transport but he says that there are a lot of people that stop and want to drive him. But in the morning he moves around just by walking, he made up a rule that he doesn’t accept the rides until noon. Wow, amazing crazy experience he must have travelling like this! And something really strange happened - the very next morning I left the meditation centre as I had realized it wasn’t what I wanted, they gave me a paper commercial for Vipassana meditation. It was so ironic as I had been looking for it all around Burma and at this point I already decided to postpone it to another time as it was clearly getting away from me. Luckily it didn’t upset me but really made me laugh. As I realized that I really don’t want to spend any more time in this guesthouse, I looked around for another place and decided upon Pann Su Wai guest house with very friendly personnel. They gave me a good price (I think 9 EUR) for a nice, clean room with comfortable.
The next few days I spent mostly taking it easy, walking around the town, hanging with the locals and keeping up with my blog. I realized that all the travelling I had made in the past 4 months made me happy but also very tired. I felt that I need to take it more slowly and my pain in the back reminded me of this in case I forgot. And also I had some problems with my left foot, when I stepped on it it was painful. I guess that sometimes when I don’t take it easy enough I end up with an unplanned rest. And I realized that during my travels I usually “work” every day, there are no weekends or holidays, so I need to force myself to make more vacations on vacations. Yeah it sounds crazy, but in reality travelling is hard work, everyday making a lot of decisions, thinking where to go and what to do, organizing the budget, understanding the system in surroundings that change often. This is the cost of living freely and doing the things that makes me happy. I want to explain also the other side of this wonderful experience, but also emphasize that this is the cost I am definitely prepared to pay. And the solution is to take it easy, spend some days just lying around in the hammock, walking slowly and doing nothing, without feeling guilty. Sometimes I had troubles doing this as I was thinking about that I didn’t come so far to just lie around, but I realized that this is also part of the experience. Sometime it is enough just to sit and observe the traffic and people that pass you. Or observe the feelings inside myself, emmbracing them rather than fearing or judging them. I had nice talks with the guy who worked at the guesthouse until he accused me that I didn’t pay for the previous day. I knew I had paid and was sure that somewhere my money must be, but he insisted that I didn’t pay. I have learnt that sometimes it better to just let some time pass, not push it, and believe that things will sort out. The next day he apologized because he found the money. I wasn’t upset because I knew that he was working too much and he didn’t do this on purpose. Mawlemyine was a nice place to relax, I felt good at my guesthouse, there is a nice view over the river and I found a nice local family that was selling fruit and they were happy having me around. I love it when people laugh when I buy coconut and then I bring my own straw for drinking water and spoon for eating the meat. I am happy if I make somebody smile, even if they think I am crazy. And in Burma they had really nice coconuts with thick meat. One day I finally decided to get a haircut and just walked in a saloon. They didn’t really speak English so I was in a dilemma but I decided to just go for it. I tried to explain them in sign language that I want her to cut just a little bit, but didn’t know what the result will be like. Well actually when she washed my head I had the best head and neck massage ever, it was worth just to get this. I was lying (not sitting) during it and enjoying like crazy. But even better than this was that I was really satisfied with the haircut she did. Wow, I felt amazing, with freshly washed hair, not being all messy, I felt like a film star :). Well considering my usual messiness you can understand how beautiful I felt when my hair was freshly cut, I didn’t need anything more. It is hard to understand but while travelling I am often a bit messy, either it is the hair, some fruit stain on my clothes or just wearing some combination of the clothes that I wouldn’t wear at home. This is one part of travelling I love – being relaxed and not caring so much about the appearance. Ok, don’t think that I walk around looking awful, but just more lets use the word “relaxed”. I love that my clothes are loose, especially in cultures where not everything is connected with sex. This is also one thing that I love about this part of the world as it is less common for women to overemphasize their breasts, legs or buttock, just to impress the opposite sex. And in spite of this I saw so many beautiful women and men there, because beauty is not really connected with wearing the tightest or the most modern cloth. I think that wearing a smile is the best possible cloth a person can wear. I felt so happy when in Vietnam two Chinese girls commented that I have a great smile. I realized it was totally because of the honestly good feeling behind it. Well like I said that everything is relative; I usually felt a bit messy but I do remember one interesting experience that happened when I was walking in Mandalay in my regular outfit (I didn’t have many different clothes), loose brown pants with blue loose shirt, nothing special, but I felt good in it. I already told you how women in Burma are very neat, with longyies and shirts, they look so beautiful. But one beautiful girl checked me from the bottom to the top and said “Wow”, I could see that she was really impressed with the way I looked although it was my regular loose, relaxed look!
After having few days doing almost nothing I went to Bilu island. It is amazing to see how like at Inle lake at one small place people make such amazing handy crafts. I saw how they make rubber, bamboo hats, small chalkboards, textiles and my favourite was making all sorts of things from wood, from combs to little boxes, tea pots and lovely pens. It was amazing to see again how handy they are, how many skills they have. And they really have the feeling for esthetics. If this would be at the end of my travels I would buy more things but I settled with a beautiful comb and pens. To get to the island I took a local boat that takes about 10 minutes and is filled with people and their motorbikes. I didn’t take an organized tour, but to travel around the island I needed transport so I hired a motorbike driver at the “port” in the island, who drove me around for about 3 hours for 10.000 Kyatts. I think that the boat ride was just about 1.000 Kyatts, so this way I spent less that 10 EUR doing the tour instead of paying much more if I would use travel agency. The next day I rented a motorbike (at the Breeze guesthouse) and went South. The drive was lovely, I was happy that I was finally moving a bit more than previous days with the wind in my hair. I passed the road by the monastery where I did my meditation and it was quite weird that just at this time I saw a nun that was sitting next to me during our meditations, I admired her for her stillness. When I saw her I was grateful for the experience in the monastery I had the fortune to get. I visited the biggest reclining Buddha statue, it is so interesting because inside of “his body” there is a whole building, a part was with statues, explaining the teachings of Buddha. It was so strange to see and walk inside this giant statue and next to it they are building a new one. I stopped at the local market in Muddon and got some lovely fruit and Thanaka for home and also had my face painted from the local lady to protect me from the sun again. In Thanbyzyat I visited the Death railway museum. It was an ok place but I was a bit disappointed as for 5.000 Kyatts there was just one small building with some pictures and little information about the horrors that happened during building the railway connecting Thailand and Burma during World War II. My final stop was Kyaikkami’s Yele Pagoda, which has amazing setting at the sea. I was finally at the sea again although it was a bit dirty. As I was returning I searched for a place where I could get freshly cooked food and relax a little after a lot of driving and after quite some time I found a great place – where I could communicate enough to explain them I don’t want to eat meat, the food was delicious and served with a small soup and salad, like it was a tradition in Burma, and of course with the lovely tea and friendly locals. Needless to say it was very cheap, I tried to leave a tip but they wouldn’t accept it. I loved that in Burma they served tea everywhere, usually it was free and very delicious! I arrived back in Mawlemyine exhausted as I travelled about 150 kilometers that day, but loving being more mobile. In my last Burmese evening I tried mixing the local beers – the more blunt Myanmar with more strong Black Shield and got a nice result. And as usual before leaving the country I loved I had some sugar cravings as I was a bit sad and emotional. In the morning I took the “lovely” taxi drive to the border – it was crazy, first part of the road was dirt road and the driver drove like it was highway, overtaking everyone that got in a way, not slowing down but just honking a lot. I am used to a lot but didn’t feel the safe. And at one time he stops in the middle of a normal road. There were three people (yeah it is normal to drive at least three or four on one motorbike there) with a motorbike that broke down. We picked them up in our car and I tried to move my backpack away not to get dirty all over from the motorbike but the driver wouldn’t let me. At the end I was a bit furious as I realized that my backpack got really dirty from the mud of the motor bike. Not that it was perfectly clean before, but it was ok considering how much I had travelled. And just before the drive I thought: ok, here I don’t need to put rain cover on it like I do it on local transports that it doesn’t get dirty all over (I didn’t do it always but after at one time it got some bigger stains I was more careful). In this ride when we started we were just two people in a clean car, so I didn’t protect it and was later really mad. Yeah, I overreacted as it was just a thing and it wasn’t something that cannot be fixed. Yeah, I guess I was a bit upset leaving this country, but I knew it was time to leave it. Walking over the bridge that connects the two countries made me realize this was one of the countries that will hold a special spot in my heart!!
At this point I want to thank you for taking the time and read this blog. I know sometimes it is a lot of words and you get lost a bit, but it means a lot to me for you to take the time to try to see the world through my glasses!! I have one advice if you think like this: “Oh, I am interested in what happens after Burma, but I don’t have the time to read all of this Katja’s monologue, because it takes too much time”. I understand it is a lot to read because this blog is meant for three groups of people - first of all it is my diary which reminds me of my great adventures, secondly it is telling the story to anybody who is interested in what my travels are like and thirdly I also want to leave some useful informations for people who can use it while travelling. So just read the parts that are interesting to you and skip the rest. And also think about how it was for me, writing about my adventures just using my phone, uploading pictures and trying to make it good. How many hours I spent writing it and in Burma’s blog I don’t know how I managed to loose my first notes about the last 10 days of it – so I had two choices: to be angry, sad and give up or just write it again and relive these special moments. I decided to spend about 10 more hours on it and am happy that I did it, because this is a wonderful reminder of my adventures!! And if you don't take the time to read about what happened after Burma, just take the time to do something you really love, you deserve it !!
See you soon :) !!